Standard Rear Suspension

Introduction

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Coil Springs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Expedition and Navigator

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the rear driveshaft. Refer to Section 7.
4. Disconnect the rear Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor electrical connector.

Make sure the parking brake control is fully released.

5. Pull the front parking brake cable and conduit.
6. Insert a suitable retainer into the parking brake control.
7. Disconnect the rear parking brake cable and conduit from the rear axle.
8. Remove the rear parking brake cable and conduit from the rear axle bracket assembly.
9. Remove the cable from the caliper.
10. Repeat for the other side.
11. Remove the disc brake caliper bolts.
12. Remove and secure the caliper aside with wire.
13. Repeat for the other side.
14. Disconnect the axle vent tube.
15. Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the rear axle.
16. Remove the bolts from each stabilizer bar retainer.
17. Remove the retainers.
18. Use a suitable jack to support the rear axle.
19. Remove the lower shock absorber nut and bolt.
20. Repeat for the other side.
21. Remove the rear axle-to-trackbar assembly bolt.
22. Remove the rear suspension lower arm assembly-to-axle bolt.
23. Repeat for the other side.
24. Remove the rear suspension upper arm assembly-to-rear axle bolt.
25. Repeat for the other side.
26. Lower the rear axle and remove the coil spring.

To install:

Do not tighten any nuts or bolts until the rear suspension is raised so that the rear suspension lower arms are parallel to the ground. Once in position, tighten all the nuts and bolts to specification.

27. Install the rear coil spring.
28. Position the rear suspension upper arm assemblies to the axle and install the bolts.
29. Position the rear suspension lower arm assemblies to the axle and install the bolts.
30. Position the trackbar assembly to the axle and install the bolts.
31. Position the shock absorbers to the axle and install the bolts.
32. Position the stabilizer bar to the axle and install the stabilizer bar retainers and bolts.
33. Position the disc brake caliper and install the bolts.
34. Connect the parking brake cables and conduit to the axle.
35. Install the parking brake cable and conduit to the lever.
36. Install the parking brake cable and conduit to the rear axle bracket assembly.
37. Install the tire and wheel assembly.
38. Position the tire and wheel assembly.
39. Install the lug nuts and lower the vehicle.
40. Tighten the lug nuts in sequence.
41. Install the wheel cover.
42. Remove the pin from the parking brake control assembly.
43. Connect the rear Anti-lock Brake System (ABS) sensor electrical connector.
44. Connect the axle vent tube.
45. Install the driveshaft. Refer to Section 7.
46. Lower the vehicle.

Leaf Springs

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

Rear spring installation for F-250HD, F-350 2-wheel Chassis Cab with Dana axles

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Rear spring installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab

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Semi-elliptic, leaf type springs are used at the rear axle. The front end of the spring is attached to a spring bracket on the frame side member. The rear end of the spring is attached to the bracket on the frame side member with a shackle. Each spring is attached to the axle with two U-bolts. A spacer is located between the spring and the axle on some applications to obtain a level ride position.

1. Raise the vehicle by the frame until the weight is off the rear spring with the tires still on the floor.
2. Remove the nuts from the spring U-bolts and drive the U-bolts from the U-bolt plate. Remove the auxiliary spring and spacer, if so equipped.
3. Remove the spring-to-bracket nut and bolt at the front of the spring.
4. Remove the upper and lower shackle nuts and bolts at the rear of the spring and remove the spring and shackle assembly from the rear shackle bracket.
5. If the bushings in the spring or shackle are worn or damaged, install new bushings.

To install:

When installing the components, snug down the fasteners. Don't apply final torque to the fasteners until the vehicle is back on the ground.

6. Position the spring in the shackle and install the upper shackle-to-spring nut and bolt with the bolt head facing outward.
7. Position the front end of the spring in the bracket and install the nut and bolt.
8. Position the shackle in the rear bracket and install the nut and bolt.
9. Position the spring on top of the axle with the spring center bolts centered in the hole provided in the seat. Install the auxiliary spring and spacer, if so equipped.
10. Install the spring U-bolts, plate and nuts.
11. Lower the vehicle to the floor and tighten the attaching hardware as follows:

U-bolts nuts:

• F-250 HD and F-350—150-210 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)
• F-Super Duty chassis/cab—200-270 ft. lbs. (272-367 Nm)
• F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis—220-300 ft. lbs. (300-408 Nm)

Spring to front spring hanger:

• F-250HD 2WD, F-350 2WD —150-210 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)
• F-250HD, 350 4WD—150-175 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)
• F-Super Duty—255-345 ft. lbs. (346-469 Nm)

Spring to rear spring hanger:

• All except F-250 and F-350 2WD Chassis Cab—75-115 ft. lbs. (102-156 Nm)
• F-250 and F-350 2WD Chassis Cab; F-Super Duty—150-210 ft. lbs. (204-285 Nm)

F-150 and F-250

The leaf spring U-bolts and spring plate, remove the four retaining nuts

Remove the leaf spring-to-front frame bracket bolt and nut

Remove the leaf spring-to-shackle upper bolt and nut

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Support the axle housing with a transmission jack, or equivalent.
4. Remove 4 retaining nuts from the leaf spring U-bolts.
5. Remove 2 U-bolts and the spring plate. On 4x4 models, remove the spring spacer.
6. Carefully lower the axle housing to allow enough clearance for leaf spring removal.
7. Remove the leaf spring-to-front frame bracket bolt and nut.
8. Remove the leaf spring-to-shackle upper bolt and nut.
9. Remove the leaf spring from the vehicle.

To install:

10. Place the leaf spring in position.
11. Install 1 leaf spring-to-shackle upper bolt and nut and 1 leaf spring-to-front frame bracket bolt and nut. Tighten both bolt and nut assemblies to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).
12. Raise the axle housing to align with the leaf spring.
13. Install the leaf spring plate, 2 U-bolts and 4 U-bolt retaining nuts. On 4x4 vehicles, install the spring spacer. Tighten the U-bolt retaining nuts to 73-97 ft. lbs. (98-132 Nm).
14. Remove the transmission jack, or equivalent.
15. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 83-112 ft. lbs. (113-153 Nm).
16. Lower the vehicle.
17. Road test the vehicle and check for proper operation.

1999-00 F-250SD, F-350

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Position jack stands under the axle housing.
4. Remove the shock absorber.

5. Remove the two U-bolts and the front spring spacer. Discard the U-bolts.
6. Disconnect the front driveshaft.
7. Remove the nut and bolt and position the spring shackle away from the spring.
8. Disconnect the spring hanger nut and bolt.
9. Using a hammer, tap the spring until the spring is free from the hanger bracket.
10. Remove the spring from the vehicle.

To install:

11. Position the spring in the vehicle.
12. Install the spring into the spring hanger.
13. Position the spring into the hanger.
14. Install the bolt and nut. Do not tighten the nut and bolt at this time.
15. Install the spring into the spring shackle.
16. Install the bolt and nut. Do not tighten the nut and bolt at this time.

The U-bolts insert through the front spring cap on the left hand side and through the axle assembly bracket on the right hand side.

17. Position the front spring spacer and the new U-bolts.
18. Install the four nuts. Do not tighten the nuts at this time.
19. Install the shock, bolt and nut onto the spring cap.

The suspension must be loaded with the weight of the vehicle before the U-bolts and the leaf spring mounting bolts can be tightened.

20. Lower the vehicle onto the jack stands until the front suspension is supporting the weight of the vehicle.

The U-bolts must be tightened in a criss-cross sequence. This will tighten the U-bolts evenly.

21. Tighten the U-bolts in a criss-cross sequence.
22. Tighten the leaf spring rear retaining bolt and nut.
23. Tighten the leaf spring front retaining bolt and nut.
24. Raise the vehicle and remove the jack stands.
25. Install the front driveshaft.
26. Install the wheel and tire assembly.
27. Lower the vehicle.

Shock Absorbers

TESTING

Refer to shock testing under 2 wheel drive coil spring suspension.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Support the axle housing with a jackstand

The upper shock mount location—F-150

Hold the upper shock absorber shaft and remove the upper retaining nut, washer and bushing

The lower shock mounting retaining bolt and but

Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut and bolt

1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
2. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Support the axle housing with a jackstand, or equivalent.
4. Hold the upper shock absorber shaft and remove the upper retaining nut, washer and bushing.
5. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining nut and bolt.
6. Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.

To install:

7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Track Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Expedition and Navigator

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Detach the air suspension height sensor electrical connector.
3. Depress the metal retaining tabs and remove the air suspension height sensor from the ball studs.
4. Remove the passenger side trackbar bolt.
5. Remove the driver's side trackbar nut and bolt.
6. Remove the trackbar from the vehicle.
7. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Stabilizer Bar

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1997-98 F-250HD, F-350 and F-SuperDuty

Rear stabilizer—F-250 and F-350 models with Ford rear axles

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Rear stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty chassis/cab models

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Rear stabilizer bar installation for F-Super Duty stripped chassis and motor home chassis

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1. Remove the nuts from the lower ends of the stabilizer bar link.
2. Remove the outer washers and insulators.
3. Disconnect the bar from the links.
4. Remove the inner insulators and washers.
5. Unbolt the link from the frame.
6. Remove the U-bolts, brackets and retainers.

To Install:

7. Replace all worn or cracked rubber parts. Coat all new rubber parts with silicone grease.
8. Assemble all parts loosely and make sure the bar assembly is centered before tightening the fasteners. Observe the following torque figures:
   • Stabilizer bar-to-axle nut—30-45 ft. lbs. (40-61 Nm)
   • Stabilizer bar-to-axle bolt—30-47 ft. lbs. (40-64 Nm)
   • Link bracket-to-frame nut (4WD)—30-42 ft. lbs. (40-57 Nm)
   • Link-to-bracket nut (4WD)—60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
   • Link-to-frame nut (2WD)—60 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)
   • Stabilizer bar-to-link—15-25 ft. lbs. (20-34 Nm)

F-150, F-250, Expedition and Navigator

1. Remove the stabilizer bar link nut.
2. Remove the stabilizer bar link bolt and the stabilizer bar link.
3. Remove the stabilizer bar retainer bolts.
4. Remove the stabilizer bar retainers and the stabilizer bar.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

1999-00 F-Super Duty Models

1. Raise and support the vehicle.
2. Remove the nuts from both lower ends of the stabilizer bar links and remove the washers.
3. Remove the nuts and washers from both upper ends of the stabilizer bar links-to-frame and remove the links.
4. Remove the nuts from both stabilizer bar retainer-to-axle brackets and remove the stabilizer bar retainers, stabilizer bar mounting brackets, U-bolts and the stabilizer bar.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal.

Full Floating Rear Axle Bearings

REMOVAL, REPACKING AND INSTALLATION

Before handling the bearings, there are a few things that you should remember to do and not to do.

Remember to DO the following:

• Remove all outside dirt from the housing before exposing the bearing.
• Treat a used bearing as gently as you would a new one.
• Work with clean tools in clean surroundings.
• Use clean, dry canvas gloves, or at least clean, dry hands.
• Clean solvents and flushing fluids are a must.
• Use clean paper when laying out the bearings to dry.
• Protect disassembled bearings from rust and dirt. Cover them up.
• Use clean rags to wipe bearings.
• Keep the bearings in oil-proof paper when they are to be stored or are not in use.
• Clean the inside of the housing before replacing the bearing.

Do NOT do the following:

• Don't work in dirty surroundings.
• Don't use dirty, chipped or damaged tools.
• Try not to work on wooden work benches or use wooden mallets.
• Don't handle bearings with dirty or moist hands.
• Do not use gasoline for cleaning; use a safe solvent.
• Do not spin-dry bearings with compressed air. They will be damaged.
• Do not spin dirty bearings.
• Avoid using cotton waste or dirty cloths to wipe bearings.
• Try not to scratch or nick bearing surfaces.
• Do not allow the bearing to come in contact with dirt or rust at any time.

F-250HD and F-350 Models

Rear wheel hub showing wedge positioning—F-350 4X2 with dual rear wheels shown

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The wheel bearings on the Ford 10¹/₂ in. full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

The wheel bearings on the full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

1. Set the parking brake and loosen the axle shaft bolts.
2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor.
3. Remove the wheels.
4. Remove the brake drums.
5. Remove the axle shaft bolts.
6. Remove the axle shaft and discard the gaskets.
7. With the axle shaft removed, remove the gasket from the axle shaft flange studs.
8. Install Hub Wrench T85T-4252-AH, or equivalent, so that the drive tangs on the tool engage the slots in the hub nut.

The hub nuts are right-hand thread on the right hub and left-hand thread on the left hub. The hub nuts should be stamped RH and LH. Never use power or impact tools on these nuts! The nuts will ratchet during removal.

9. Remove the hub nut.
10. Install step plate adapter tool D80L-630-7, or equivalent, in the hub.
11. Install puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent and loosen the hub to the point of removal. Remove the puller and step plate.
12. Remove the hub, taking care to catch the outer bearing as the hub comes off.
13. Install the hub in a soft-jawed vise and pry out the hub seal.
14. Lift out the inner bearing.
15. Drive out the inner and outer bearing races with a drift.
16. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
17. Wash the bearing races and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear. Replace any bearing and race that appears in any way damaged. Always replace the bearings and races as a set.
18. Coat the race bores with a light coat of clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease and drive the races squarely into the bores until they are fully seated. A good indication that the race is seated is when you notice the grease from the bore squashing out under the race when it contact the shoulder. Another indication is a definite change in the metallic tone when you seat the race. Just be very careful to avoid damaging the bearing surface of the race!
19. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined in Section 1 for the front wheel bearings on 2-Wheel Drive trucks.
20. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub.

When installing the new seal, the words OIL SIDE must go inwards towards the bearing!

21. Place the seal squarely in the hub and drive it into place. The best tool for the job is a seal driver such as T85T-1175-AH, which will stop when the seal is at the proper depth.

If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, a new seal must be installed.

22. Clean the spindle thoroughly. If the spindle is excessively pitted, damaged or has a predominately bluish tint (from overheating), it must be replaced.
23. Coat the spindle with 80W/90 oil.
24. Pack the hub with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.
25. Pack the outer bearing with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease in the same manner as you packed the inner bearing.
26. Place the outer bearing in the hub and install the hub and bearing together on the spindle.
27. Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the keyway prior to thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the thread direction.
28. Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. (75-88 Nm). Rotate the hub occasionally during nut tightening.
29. Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!
30. Inspect the axle shaft O-ring seal and replace it if it looks at all bad.
31. Install the axle shaft.
32. Coat the axle shaft bolt threads with waterproof seal and install them by hand until they seat. Do not tighten them with a wrench at this time!
33. Check the diameter across the center of the brake shoes. Check the diameter of the brake drum. Adjust the brake shoes so that their diameter is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the drum diameter.
34. Install the brake drum
35. Install the wheel.
36. Loosen the differential filler plug. If lubricant starts to run out, retighten the plug. If not, remove the plug and fill the housing with 80W/90 gear oil.
37. Lower the truck to the floor.
38. Tighten the wheel lugs to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).
39. Now tighten the axle shaft bolts. Torque them to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-108 Nm).

F-Super Duty, Stripped Chassis and Motor Home Chassis

Tightening the hub nut

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Installing the rear wheel bearings and seal

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Hub nut installation

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Tightening the hub nut

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The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

1. Set the parking brake and loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the axle shaft bolts.
2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor. The axle shafts must turn freely, so release the parking brake.
3. Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be re-used.
4. Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel bearings.
5. Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).
6. Remove the brake caliper (see Section 9).
7. Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.

The hub nuts for both sides are right-hand thread and marked RH.

8. Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.
9. With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.
10. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
11. Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.
12. If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift. Install the new cups with a block of wood and hammer or press them in.
13. If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to make sure the cups are squarely seated.
14. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner previously outlined for the front wheel bearings on 2WD trucks. Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.
15. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the hub with a seal installation tool.
16. Wrap the threads of the spindle with tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.
17. Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the keyway prior to threading.
18. Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft. lbs. (88-102 Nm) while rotating the wheel.

The hub will ratchet at torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool No. T88T-4252-A. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.

19. Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° (¹/₄ turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
20. Using a dial indicator, check end-play of the hub. No end-play is permitted.
21. Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.
22. Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lock washers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.
23. Install the caliper.
24. Install the wheels.
25. Lower the truck to the ground.
26. Tighten the wheel lug nuts.
27. Tighten the axle shaft bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.